Many folks are fans of the BuddiPole, and I’ve written about it before. Buying one of their kits gives you an “erector set” of parts that you can mix and match in various combinations. I’ve acquired so many parts it takes three bags (two long and one regular) to hold them all. But one variation keeps working better than all the other combinations I’ve tried. So here is my preferred BuddiPole combination.
First, antenna modeling and theory tells us that any loaded antenna is a compromise — we are trading physical length (and weight) for a coil which badly impacts radiation efficiency. So I have stopped using them entirely (at least for 20 meter and higher). Second, to perform well, any dipole configuration has to be 1/2 wave above ground. On 20 meters that would be 10 meters, or about 33 feet — pretty darned high for a “portable” antenna. So I have pretty much given up on dipoles.
What DOES work fantastically well, is a full size 1/4 wave length long vertical element with a 1/4 wave length long counterpoise. In essence a vertical dipole. These have low take-off angles which allows them to perform well for DX. The counterpoise is nothing more than a wire that can also be used as a guy line if you insulate the ground side — it is the “other half” of the dipole.
So let’s see — no coils, only half a dipole worth of arms and whips — sure sounds like a lot less stuff than a BuddiPole Deluxe kit with long mast option (which costs $474)
Here is the list of parts you need for full size (no coil) 20-2 meter vertical operation:
- BuddiPole Long Mast With Guying Kit $124
- 32-inch Accessory Arm x 3 $75 total (these don’t show on the website but are available)
- 9.5-foot Long Whip $18
- Vertical Antenna Clamp (with mounting kit) $49.50
- BuddiStick to Mast Adapter $8
- Coax Cable (50′ with 2 PL259 Adapters) $18
- Wire Assembly (counterpoise) $15
- Antenna Mast Bag (Long) $45
Total cost of the above: $352.50
Two nice-to-have options are:
- BuddiPole Tripod $85 (You can live without this, but even with it you still need to guy it)
- Triple Ratio Switched Balun $79 (reduces RF on coax, and can help match your antenna)
You could buy the BuddiPole Deluxe Kit with long mast for $474 (which includes the base), then add a 22-inch and a 32-inch arm for $45, and you would have enough parts to use it in a full size 20 meter and up vertical configuration. If you added the $49.50 vertical clamp, you would be able to mount the vertical to a balcony rail or table.
I have used antenna as a vertical and when I was in VP9/ K2HVN I contacted almost 3,000 with 78 countries and that is a couple hours each day for 1 week. I tried the dipole but with poor results I am going to try KE1B ‘s vertical with counterpoise as a L shape instead of a wire.
A vertical dipole (full size) mounted with one side to the ground is very effective with an excellent low take-off angle for DX. A horizontal dipole mounted close to the ground has a horrible take-off angle — most of the energy is going straight up and the angle of incidence is such that it doesn’t get refracted back to earth. A 20 meter full-size vertical dipole is achievable with the Buddipole system of parts. In my case, like you are planning, I use a somewhat angled counterpoise, and the shock-cord mast for the full-size radiating element.
Thanks for sharing your configuration Robert. For the vertical radiating element, is higher off the ground better? I have the Buddipole 18-foot mast so I was thinking of using that.
What angle relative to the radiating element do you normally set your counterpoise?
Regards,
Daryl VK3MCB
Hi Daryl,
For a full size 1/4 wave vertical, you can get excellent low angle of take off (great for DX) with the counterpoise mounted 1 to 4 feet above the ground. While the dipole folks are trying to get it up 1/4 to 1/2 wave above ground to avoid having a take off angle that puts it in the clouds, the vertical folks can keep things down low. In other words, no reason to put the base of the vertical higher than your tripod minimum. That said, elevated radials are key. While someone would argue you need at least 120 buried radials to be effective, keeping them elevated works MUCH better, and 4 is fantastic, 2 is fine, and 1 is acceptable — slight bias to radiate better in the direction of the radial.
Hi Robert. Can you explain a bit more about “… with the counterpoise mounted 1 to 4 feet above the ground”? If I have my 1/4-wave vertical radiating element, and my 1/4-wave counterpoise, is the idea to have the counterpoise as vertical as possible too?
A little late in responding here as I just now (May 1, 2016) read your post….
The idea behind using a vertical with elevated counterpoises is that the counterpoises will be insulated from the ground. They need to be kept off the ground by at least two feet – four feet is probably better. Any non-conductive post or support will work. I have found that plastic electric fence posts (about four feet high) work great.
Also, the length of the counterpoise is critical in tuning for a low SWR. For a full sized 20M vertical with 16 – 17 foot vertical section, you are talking about using 16 – 17 foot counterpoises also.
I like to use multiple counterpoises. I use at least four spread out evenly around the antenna. This can take up a lot of real estate, so some times you will have to make do with a fewer number – even one at times.
The mounting height of the vertical does not appear to be a factor. This is completely opposite to what you see in a dipole where the mounting height is the main factor in determining take off angle. Low mounted dipoles do not have the low angle take off angle needed for DX contacts. Verticals mounted at any height do have a nice low take off angle.
My current Buddipole vertical setup uses 16-foot elevated counterpoises. I vary the length of the vertical “stick “, but not the length of the counterpoises to change operating bands. I find it easier to leave the counterpoises set up and just change the vertical “pole” height.
All this is done using a Buddipole tripod set so that the feedpoint (VersaTee) is located about six feet above the ground. I do use three guy wires to anchor the tripod to the ground. These guy wires are attached right above where the tripod legs all come together. All guy wires go to “tent” stakes set out about the same distance as the tripod legs are. An additional note: I do not extend the legs of the tripod – I use them in their fully collapsed length.
Trial and error and a good antenna analyzer (a Rig Expert) has allowed me to determine what my setups are for three bands (20M, 17M, and 15M) that all use sixteen foot counterpoises, varying “stick” lengths, and no coils. I can also setup up for 40M using the same basic setup, but 40M requires using a coil.
Here are my settings for the three bands you can access without using any coils. Remember, the counterpoises will remain at sixteen feet. Only the length of the vertical part changes. I use 22-inch arms and 5 1/2 foot whips.
20M (14 MHz) = 6 arms + 5 1/2 foot whip gives a SWR of 1.14 with a resistance of 52 ohms.
17M (18 MHz) = 6 arms + NO WHIP. SWR = 1.3, and 42 ohms.
15M (21 MHz) = 4 arms + NO WHIP. SWR = 1.5, and 48 ohms.
For 40M (7 MHz), the setup is 6 arms, 5 1/2 foot whip, and a coil (tapped at #18). SWR = 1.2, and 45 ohms.
So far my Buddipole vertical setup has allowed me to reach 31 states and 54 countries using my Icom 7200 and 100 watts.
That’s very interesting Mike – thanks. You have inspired me to give that setup a try.
Mike
This is a great thread you have going. I have a question that may require some input. I am still new to the HF bands as I recently received my General ticket. I work offshore in the Gulf of Mexico and finally, after a few months of convincing, have gotten permission from both Captains to transmit from the ship. Now, typically, I would use 20 meters as it is my preferred band. But if I am on dayshift then I would only be able to transmit at night and 40 meters becomes the clear choice. (My newbie experience has taught me that 20 meters goes away after the sun goes down. Being on the ocean, I have the advantage of a salt water ground plane. Another new concept to me. So here is my question. If I construct a 40 meter vertical with my buddipole and counterpoise it, would it be more advantagious to set up in the middle of a helicopter landing pad? It is about 100′ of circular deck made of steel and is about 60′ above the waters surface. Or would it be better to mount on a handrail on the outer edge of the ship? Either way, I will be able to easily isolate the counterpoise. Just looking for some input. One final thought. Is there anything wrong with building a counterpoise net that has all of the lengths for the bands I want to use connecting at one ring terminal on the Versatee and then just fanning them out and isolating them?
Hi Randal,
Your job sounds exciting and beautiful. Bet the night sky is fantastic. I agree with your choice of 40m since you will be mostly working at night.
Here’s a though for you — how about you talk to the two Captains as well as the Chief Engineer and propose adding a sloping dipole between some of the superstructure? This will work much better than your Buddypole will. Pitch it as additional communication should the ship have an issue at see (a backup communication means).
A quarter wave a 40 meters is about 35 feet long. If you could hang a wire of that length, even if it slopes, from the middle of the helicopter pad (temporary obviously) and somehow ground to the ship’s hull, I suspect you might wind up with one of the strongest signals on the band — seriously. You have a metal ship on sea water. You couldn’t ask for a better groundplane. A full size 1/4 wave vertical is a fantastic antenna, with low-takeoff angles, which means great DX.
If you do use the Buddypole, mount it vertically.
No problem making a fan of counterpoise wires — I’ve done that with LAN cable, cutting each pair to a different 1/4 wave length. I cut small slits at the proper length so the cable jacket remains mostly intact. Makes it very easy to roll up!
Best of luck to you!
73, Bob, WB4SON
Hello Randy
I agree with the buddipole in vertical setup. It works great on 20 meters. I have a hard time with the 40 meter band. I only have 4 22 inch arms and the long 9.5 antenna (all out). I also tap it at 25/24 respectively. I cannot fine good SWR’s. Also I’m am confused with the setting the tripod. Should I extend the mast to its highest point (i have the long mast) or should I just work with the versatee at 6 ft from the ground??
Hi Randy,
Its hard to beat a full size vertical dipole, and that is easy to do with the Buddipole. As you have discovered, the lower frequency bands are an issue as the elements are very short which increases the radiation resistance, and being closer to the ground with respect to their longer wavelength, much of the radiation will be straight up into the sky. I would attempt to get your antenna as high up as you possibly can, if you are using it in a horizontal configuration. Just don’t forget those guy wires! BTW an optimal height for a 40 meter antenna would be 10 to 20 meters up — that’s not going to happen with a Buddipole.
Bob,
I’m late to the conversation but I just bought a new Buddipole deluxe kit with the long mast and the 9.5′ whips. I’m in Colorado Springs with mountains to the west. I have a large back deck that is 6-7 feet above the ground, which gives me a significant boost to height above the ground. With your vertical configuration, will having the counterpoise wire 6-8 feet above the ground still work okay? It looks like I can get the feed point of either a vertical or horizontal antenna almost 25′ above the ground if necessary.
Hi Keith,
No problem if the counterpoise is above ground as long as it is resonant — in other words a 1/4 wavelength on the band you are working. Non-resonant counterpoise wires will work best if in contact with the earth (they are capacitively coupling to the earth ground). But when elevated above the ground, then they need to be resonant.
A vertical configuration will give you the lower takeoff angle for working longer distances like DX.
If it is horizontal and 1/4 wavelength above the ground (or lower), then the takeoff angle will be close to vertical — warming the clouds or simply going into space. For the Buddypole to work most effectively in a horizontal position it should be close to 1/2 wave above ground. So for 20 meters, that is 33 feet. But if you are talking 25 feet, that’s pretty darned close, so I’d try it. But don’t forget to guy it. It will blow over easily and break all those elements.
Best thing about ham radio (and the most fun in my opinion), is simply to try different things and see what works for you. That’s a very nice thing about the buddypole — it is great for experimenting!
73, Bob, WB4SON
Great conversations…
I’ve had success with the MFJ-1979 quarter wave 20 m collapsible portable whip. And it’s only about $75 at HRO. I configure as a vertical on the Versatee with a quarter wave 20 Buddipole wire counterpoise, on the Buddipole tripod. To change band shorten the whip and counterpoise appropriately. Great full size no coil system 20 thru two meters. I use a common wooden dowel from Home Depot or ACE hardware store for the far end of the counterpoise. I’m making 5000 mile plus contacts with reasonable signal reports on cw and digital on 20 with only 5 to 25 watts!
I live in a no antenna HOA. So a temporary portable is the only I can get on the air from the home shack. Just another option to consider, that is quick to put up, repeatable, and definitely works. Have fun experimenting.
Hi Dan,
Thanks so much for reading the post and sharing your experience. Any full-size quarter wave will work very well, and that’s what you are getting with that long MFJ antenna. Even the shortened “hamstick” antennas work pretty darned well on 20 meters if you have a decent ground plane. I use one of those on the roof of my truck and drive to a nearby beach and get excellent results with it. But when I use a full size quarter-wave things are even better. Yep at some point I’ll probably be in an antenna restricted area. I’ll dial back to QRP and run FT8 most of the time. 73, Bob, WB4SON
I have a balcony at 11th floor of a building with a clear view, meaning some buildings here and there, but mostly a clear view. The balcony is 7m long and 2.4m tall.
I’m thinking about getting a Buddipole Deluxe package to use on the balcony, and occasionally use on trips to the countryside.
I’m also planning to get an antenna analyzer (looking at MFJ-223) and a tuner (LDG Z11 Pro II).
I’m new to ham radio so would like to try and get some DX listening first, and hopefully making contacts at some point. My idea is to start at 40, 20 and 10-meter bands. From reading many forum posts, maybe 40-meter would be difficult for my location and this antenna, let’s see.
I have a question regarding the height required for a horizontal dipole to work.
– Would the Buddipole with coils work on this described balcony scenario for 40/20/10 meter bands? Does a dipole need to be at a certain height (depending on the band) and not higher than that? In other words, is the 11th floor too tall for 40/20/10 bands?
– Would the Buddipole without coils work better?
Thanks a lot!
Hi Levy,
Nice to meet you! As your frequency goes lower, trapped antennas become less efficient. In other words, they may work well on 20/15/10m, but will not work nearly as well on 40/80m.
In an apartment situation, you are going to be challenged for sure. In addition to a compromised antenna, you are going to have to deal with electrical noise from your neighbors, which typically will be worse on 80/40m lower frequencies.
Over time, my opinion has changed on various antennas. At this point, I’d recommend that you consider buying what folks called a HamStick antenna, and start on 20 or 17 meters. A HamStick is usually used as a vertical antenna, and typically on top of the roof of a car, which acts as a ground plane (the “other half” of the antenna). When used on a car, folks will typically use a mag-mount base. The antenna is about 8 feet long; a four foot bottom section with a coil, and a four foot whip at the top. Because of the height, driving with a HamStick is not advised as it will either smash into things, or blow off. This would be a great solution for you if you didn’t mind using it in your car. In fact I’d highly recommend you check out ParksOnTheAir.com which is a fun activity that lots of folks (and I mean LOTS as in tens of thousands) participate in.
So that covers your car — You can find a clamp on base, or likely can figure out some way to mount it yourself and put your hamstick on your balcony. It is important to supply the “other half” of the antenna. If you have a metal balcony rail, that alone might work if you have something like 16 feet of rail. If not, you can cut a 16 foot length of insulated wire, attach it to the shield side of your mount, and either let it drape over your balcony, or run it along the floor. When used like that, the 16 foot wire is called a counterpoise.
HamStick is an old trademark, I don’t think the company exists anymore. MFJ sells their MFJ-1620T, which is pretty much the same thing.
I really enjoyed my Buddypole in its day, but these days I am more inclined to either use the antenna on top of my car, or toss an end of a end-fed half-wave wire into a tree and use than. The money I save goes into a nice portable station.
73, Bob, WB4SON
Robert
Nice kit!
I have made thousands of contacts with my various Buddipole antennas over the years.
Its an excellent investment on a high quality and proven performer made in the USA
No rust, corrosion or cracked plastic
I have the BuddiHex and Mastwerks and I was able to deploy it at Dayton last year
Thanks to Chris and Budd, the wires are pretuned on the BuddiHex